CILACAP

CILACAP

Over the border from West Java, Cilacap is an unhurried city of wide boulevards and has the only natural harbour with deep-water berthing facilities on Java’s south coast. Very few travellers pass through here now there are no regular boats plying the backwater trip to Pangandaran.

The tourist office ( 534 481; Jl A Yani 8; 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-1pm Sat) is opposite the Hotel Wijayakusuma.

Sights & Activities

Built between 1861 and 1879, Benteng Pendem (admission 2000Rp; 8am-4pm) is an impressive Dutch fort complex at the entrance to the old harbour. It has intact barracks (bring a torch to explore properly, as they’re rather dark) and massive ramparts, and is one of the best-preserved colonial garrisons in Java.

The fort overlooks a long stretch of dirty sand, Pantai Teluk Penyu. This popular local beach has souvenir stalls that sell an array of shells and trinkets.

For better beaches – complete with white sand – head to Nusa Kambangan, a long island south of the port. This island contains no fewer than four high-security prisons (and five inactive ones); former inmates have included the Bali bombers and Tommy Suharto. There are fine beaches to explore, but swimming can be treacherous. Keep a lookout for white-bellied fish eagles surfing the thermals. Ferries sail from Cilacap at 7am (30,000Rp) and return in the late afternoon.

Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Anggrek ( 533 835; Jl Anggrek 16; r with shared mandi/air-con 45,000/75,000Rp; ) For a cheap bed, consider this place, which has spartan and reasonably clean rooms. It’s about a five-minute walk to Jl Yani, the main drag. Hotel Mutiara Cilacap ( 531 545; mutiaracilacap@intanhotels.com; Jl Gatot Subroto 136; r from 550,000Rp;   ) This is the best hotel in town, with business-class facilities, comfortable, spacious rooms, and a decent restaurant plus a bar and cafe. Restaurant Perapatan/Sien Hieng

BOAT

Only charter boats are now plying the back-waters from Cilacap to Majingklak. Click here for more information on trips. The jetty is near the big Pertamina installations.

The Cilacap bus terminal (Jl Gatot Subroto) is 3km north of the city centre. Buses run between Cilacap and Pangandaran (32,000Rp, three hours), Yogyakarta (48,000Rp, five hours) and Purwokerto (14,000Rp, 1½ hours), where you’ll need to change for Wonosobo.

For door-to-door minibuses to Yogyakarta (70,000Rp) call Toko Djadi ( 533 490; Jl A Yani 72); for Purwokerto (20,000Rp) use Nusantara Express ( 533 301; Jl Perwira).

Cilacap’s central train station is just off Jl A Yani. Very few trains now operate from here, but the Purwojaya leaves for Jakarta (executive/business class 150,000/80,000Rp, five hours) at 6.30pm.